Autumn Winter 2006

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1930s Berlin

‘Divinely decadent’ is an understatement when used to describe Berlin in the period between the wars.

Cabaret clubs were at their height and glamour and sleaze were intermingled and reflected in the clothes of the day.

Pyjamas were worn to cocktail parties. Male attire, such as evening tails and smoking jacketswere adopted to suit the female form.

Madame Vionnet had discovered the bias cut and how it could be used to flatter the figure.

A softer, more feminine style replaced the boyish, flapper look of the twenties.At the beginning of the decade, hemlines dropped dramatically to the ankle and remained there until the end of the thirties. Necklines were lowered while torsos were sensuously moulded beneath squared shoulders. Darts were replaced by soft gathers. Dress waists returned to the natural waistline. Moderately full skirts accentuated a small waistand minimized the hips. Dress bodices were designed with inset pieces and yokes.Necklines received dramatic attention, often with ruffled collars,or a silk jabot worn like cravat.

For Autumn Winter 2006 Richard lewis has adopted the sensuosness and glamour of the period and brought them into the 21st Century.

Bias cutting will never date.

Fortuny pleating is as luxurious today as it was in the 30s.Matt jersey will always accentuate and flatter the female curves.